This Lolita is worth lusting after

On my way to the local video store the other night, as I zigzagged through the throngs on Davie Street, I wondered why it is - with all these people around - that decent restaurants never survive on this southeast edge of the West End.

It might have something to do with the recent invasion of sketched-out panhandlers, I thought, as I passed a raggedy fellow chattering away with an imaginary friend in the storefront where Bravo Bistro-Amuse Bouche languished for less than a year before it closed shop. The room has now been taken over by Theresa's Family Restaurant, which offers breakfast specials for $4.95.

As I bemoaned another night of take-out sushi to go with my movie (the only other choices being greasy souvlaki, greasy pizza slices, greasy burgers or greasy chicken balls), I noticed a small crowd on the sidewalk where Random restaurant recently withered away. Had yet another culinary upstart crawled into my sad, little hood to die?

Let's hope not. Two authentically shaken lime margaritas later, my belly full of yummy fish tacos wrapped in homemade corn tortillas, I can honestly say Lolita's is my favourite new casual restaurant to open all year. This cozy "South of the Border Cantina" has everything going for it - great food, a friendly vibe, funky furnishings, an inventive bar, late night kitchen service and proven professional pedigree. All that, and it's close enough for me to merrengue home at the end of the night. Ay, caramba!

I'd stumbled into Lolita's opening night, but even with a line up, broken cash register and conked-out beer fridge, she barely missed a beat. The next night, the service was as smooth as the fresh crema on the menu's sweet fried plantanos with salsa verde. Now, before you armchair critics out there start tsk- tsking about how unfair it is to review a new restaurant so soon after opening (and I know a lot of you were thinking that when I slammed Watermark last week), let me say this: New restaurants do not offer discounts while they work out the kinks. The first few weeks of any new establishment is a critical time when locals rush in to get their first - and usually definitive - Impression. Most customers, and even chomp - at the bit critics, will forgive tardiness if the food is worth it and the service at least attentive. I believe that when a restaurant opens its doors, they either have it or they don't. Lolita's rocks, so why wait?

Lolita's charm has a lot to do with its owner, Lila Grace Gaylie, an effervescent hostess covered in tattoos and sparkly eyeliner. Before opening this restaurant with her brother, Jaison Estevan Gaylie, was the general manager at Bin 942 for 3 years. Executive chef Shelome Bouvette also hails from Bin 942, following stints at Tomato and the Alibi Room. She also has her own catering company. Let's Eat Cake, and a Mexican husband, who inspired the Mexican-Tropical Theme.

The small room - long and narrow, with dim lighting, tight seating and loud music - is somewhat reminiscent of the Bins (now being expanded to Tokyo, where Gord Martin is off developing 943). But with its hanging bamboo ceiling, front windows that open onto the street, carved wooden stools and inviting stran-board bar (all built in the last three weeks by Jaison), Lolita's definitely has its own personality.

And it sure is tasty, Crispy Beef Taquitos ($10.75) are stuffed with pulled slow-roasted smoked beef brisket that has marinated in beer and garlic overnight. Shrimp Cerviche Cocktail ($11.75) is dunked in zesty pico de gallo with warm tortilla chips. Guacamole Classico ($8.50), is thick and chunky, but could use a bit more bite. The Turkey Tostada ($9.75) comes with chocolate and pumpkin-seed mole, made fresh in-house (as are all the other sauces). The portions are generous and the most expensive menu item is Gaucho Steak ($19.75).

Lolita's attention to fresh ingredients carries through to the bar, which offers homemade ginger beer, Sangria (red or white) and a Loco Limonada (gold tequila and mango liqueur with muddled chilli and mango lemonade) that will knock your socks off.

"Bring on the crowds," says Gaylie. Lolita's is ready for it. And so is the West End.

Lolita's South of the Border Cantina Is located at 1326 Davie Street; 604-696-9996