Published: Thursday, September 01, 2005

Lolita's South of the Border Cantina struck like a flash of lightning in the West End and became an instant hit. The place, albeit small, is packed every night after 7 p.m. so be prepared to cool your jets streetside waiting for a seat.

So what's the big attraction? Mexican food, of the sort that's been missing from the food scene. Welcoming vibes. Funky surrounds. Reggae and ska (who doesn't have a fine time in a reggae frame of mind?). It's music that gives you a soul massage.

Lila Gaylie, who runs Lolita's with brother Jaison, managed Bin 942 for five years and she brings to it a Bin kind of moxie. Tattooed, eyes a-sparkle in silver shimmer, her greetings clasp you to her bosom. (There seems to be a preponderance of tattooed staff.) And should you take a seat at the kitchen window, the equally dynamic chef Shelome Bouvette accelerates from stranger to friend in 10 seconds flat as she chit-chats across the kitchen window, totally excited about her food.

Her food, like her, is zapped with life. And not that I'm necessarily saying this about Bouvette, but I'd characterize it as lusty, big-boned food with a side of grace. "We wanted a place where people can go and have good quality Mexican food and not feel sick when they leave." Her words, not mine. Starters are $6.50 to $11.75; entrees are $13 to $19.

At some point, you might find salza or mole, oozing down your wrist. Or you might find the fish tacos so yummy, you'll be chomping like a champion. The dishes have lots of fresh greens, layers of flavour, creative tweaks and nice little detours from traditional Mexican.

I'm always a sucker for pulled meats (otherwise known as shredded) and she's got pulled beef brisket in a taquito (brisket is slow-braised in beer and garlic and spices for some 10 hours) and pulled achiote chicken for her praiseworthy tacos. (They're the stars of the menu and you'll have to try it understand why. The fish taco is not quite as brilliant as the one I've had at Sobo's in Tofino but it's delicious and there's a heck of a lot more to it.)

Most of Bouvette's dishes have a bell-ringing note of pickled something, be it pickled cabbage slaw in apple cider or purple radishes or red onion.

I got carried away with my extra-large jicama salad, a tumble of jicama, watercress, grapefruit, greens sitting atop grilled pineapple slices and tossed with cumin lime vinaigrette. Lolita's corn chowder is quite delicious with fire-roasted corn, poblano chili, sweet potatoes and tiny sparks of heat.

And now the tacos. There are four kinds, from which you choose two. Under a mess o' watercress salad, and your choice of topping, there are two large or four small corn tacos, on to which you pile everything and eat with wild abandon. The dish comes with rice and beans.

Achiote marinated pork tenderloin wrapped in banana leaf was very tasty as were the beef taquitos. Fish moqueca is a sizable dish, loaded with tomato coconut rice, full-length plantain chips and fresh seafood (halibut, squid, clams, prawns the evening I visited) and a turkey tostado comes with poblano mole and makes for a nice appetizer. The wine list is minimal: three whites and three reds; the intent is to steer you toward the cocktails and, this being a Latin restaurant, there's a whole lot of muddling going on behind the bar and much consuming of mojitos and margaritas on the customer side.

Keeping to a commitment to freshness, Bouvette buys fresh corn tortillas and fresh Mexican style cheese from a little old lady. "The tortillas are still warm when she brings it in," she says.

Staff, she says, has as much fun as the customers. "My god. Look at my sous chef! Look at what she wears to work. She looks like a retired tennis player," she says, commenting on Allison Flook's head band, skater shorts and shoes.

Restaurant visits are conducted anonymously and interviews are done by phone. Restaurants are rated out of five stars. (mstainsby@png.canwest.com)

LOLITA'S SOUTH OF THE BORDER CANTINA

1326 Davie St., 604-696-9996. Open 7 days a week from 3 p.m. to 2 a.m. No reservations.

Overall Rating 3 1/2

Food Rating 3 1/2

Ambience Rating 5

Service Rating 3 1/2

Price $$

©The Vancouver Sun 2005