A Taste of Mexico

As the skies darken and the daylight dwindles and that oh so West Coast drizzle begins and lasts day after day after day and all you want to do is book that excursion to Cancun, just head to Lolita's South of the Border. It's as close as Davie Street, Vancouver.

You'll walk into a tiny tropical restaurant, a silver lining to winter north of the border.

Owner Lila (Lee la) Grace Gaylie says, "It's cheesy tiki decor."

Really, it's Lila expressing her love of paradise, with sombreros, a straw roof, a fish tank (remnant of the previous restaurant), light fixtures that resemble jungle tulips, and little umbrellas in the best margaritas in town.

Lila and her brother Jaison opened Lolita's in August to a standing ovation.

So when you go, go early to avoid the line ups (opens at 3:00 p.m).

Brother and sister were raised in Mexico with what Lila calls "hippie breeding," living in temples and a school bus. Both of them traveled around South Asia, but settled in Vancouver and thought about opening their own place after 17 years of working in "a lot" of different restaurants.

Lila's went organic, in ambiance as well as food. The room is simple and minimal, with natural colours, wood, and textures. Everything - the bar, the tables - was built from scratch. And the feeling, well, it's like Lila says, "it feels like it has been here for years."

As for the food, well, I've been back many times in the few weeks they've been open because I can't get enough. I order guacamole classico and a margarita, white sangria, or mojito.

I've contemplated the wild mushroom quesadilla with goat cheese, the corn chowder made with fire roasted corn, turkey tostada with poblano mole, but I stick to Lolita's tacos a choice of two and I ask for the crispy pan seared B.C. halibut with mango salsa (if anyone said I'd be eating a fish taco, I'd have said "No way," but here I am, loving every bite, every drip) and the pulled anchiote chicken with salsa verde and creme. They're served on soft corn tacos (made fresh daily by a little old lady) with rice and beans on the side, and watercress salad.

Lila describes the food as modern Mexican, a niche missing in Vancouver that had never been done well.

Chef Shelome Bouvette, a trained pastry chef, learned to cook traditional dishes when she married a Mexican.

Four blocks from the beach, in a great neighbourhood, Lila says, "I'm blessed we've been so well received. I couldn't see myself doing anything else."

So forget going south this winter, instead take a seat at the bar, or overlooking the kitchen and imagine the pool behind you.

Lolita's, 1326 Davie St., Vancouver, 604.696.9996.