... uptown at cool, new Lolita's South of the Border Cantina. With a bar down one side ("good for singles", observed the authority), banquettes opposite, and three more seats at the end for observers of kitchen action, it has a lot crammed into its tiny space. The owners have also ratcheted up the decor, mixing retro fabric, bamboo ceiling and bar front, and homemade shell-adorned candle holders into a kitsch-meets-Cabo masterwork, with a sly nod to Trader Vic's thrown in.

It's huge fun, like the menu, except that chef Shelome Bouvette and co-owner/ma”tresse d' Lila Grace Gaylie, both ex-Bin 942, are serious about food, service, and cocktails with paper umbrellas. Fresh juices go in the drinks, translating into excellent classic margaritas. A pale-brown(!) Montezuma's Revenge features homemade ginger beer, as does the Pimm's-based Gringo. But thumbs down on the latter, which tasted oddly flat and overwhelmingly of cucumber.

The fare at Lolita's Cantina looks to Mexico for its spices, seasonings, and techniques, then plays around with them to create a salad of grilled pear, endive, pickled jalapenos, Stilton, and spiced pecans, with a chipotle vinaigrette. That kind of thing. Quesadillas are not the usual toasted corn-tortilla sandwich, not when you're getting house-made dough and earthy wild mushrooms. Cochinita pibil is a dish you rarely see outside Mexico, but the presentation here is smart West Coast, with the sliced pork (laudably moist and intensely infused with achiote) presented in a banana leaf that has been shaped into a small boat that makes a handy juice trap. Rice on the side, good beans with a big kick of cumin, ambrosial caramelized roasted plantains, and delectable sweet-sharp pickled red onions make this a winner, as are the beef taquitos with their deeply flavoured brisket and zingy pico de gallo accompaniment.

Lolita's fills fast. Arrive early and don't try to squash three around a Chiclet-sized table unless you want to play dish-Tetris. Note that prices-$8.25 cocktails, $6.50 to $11.75 for starters, $13 to $19.25 for platos especiales-include taxes. Both Lolita's and La Casita give you lollipops with your bill.

LOLITA'S SOUTH OF THE BORDER CANTINA 1326 Davie Street, 604-696-9996. Open daily 3 p.m. to 2 a.m.